Fixed Gear Pilgrimage in Japan:
My Girlfriend and I have been planning this trip for longer than we care to remember, but we are right this moment in the thick of one of the most amazing countries in the world, Tokyo, which conveniently enough has one of the most awesome fixed gear bike cultures in the world.
One thing strikes you immediately, bikes are everywhere! from shitty 'Mama Charis', clunky bikes that mothers cart their shopping and kids around, to custom vintage euro bikes and amazing Japanese steel.
First things first:
Before arriving in Japan I knew there would be no chance that a huge 6 foot 4 gaijin (foreigner) would be able to find a bike frame in my size so I ordered a custom Panasonic track frame from Gira Gira Chariya in Osaka + all NJS parts and a Mini Velo for my Girlfriend.
One thing strikes you immediately, bikes are everywhere! from shitty 'Mama Charis', clunky bikes that mothers cart their shopping and kids around, to custom vintage euro bikes and amazing Japanese steel.
First things first:
Before arriving in Japan I knew there would be no chance that a huge 6 foot 4 gaijin (foreigner) would be able to find a bike frame in my size so I ordered a custom Panasonic track frame from Gira Gira Chariya in Osaka + all NJS parts and a Mini Velo for my Girlfriend.
Gira Gira, such an awesome store!
Wish we had this bike parking back home, check out Rene's De Rosa
Was pretty easy to find, we were staying in Nanba, MinamiHorie is a pretty Rad district, lots of small shops, cool bikes and cool people.
And Finally, My New Ride!
Lugged my own wheels all the way from Australia just cause I wanted to do it properly, the excessive way just as they do in Japan!
Specs are:
-60cm Custom lime green Track frame, with my name in Kanji on the top tube
-Zipp 3000 Carbon Front Wheel (900g!)
-Zipp 950 Carbon Rear Wheel (950g!)
-Sugino 75 Crankset
-Sugino Vintage Super Mighty re-Release Chainring
-Nitto Seatpost
-Custom Colour Kashimax aero seat, green with pink underside
-MKS Nuveau Pedals, MKS clips and Toshi Straps
- Dura ace sealed bearing headset
- Ntto jaguar Stem
-Natural Cycle Bars
-Champ grips
-Kashimax top tube protector
Specs are:
-60cm Custom lime green Track frame, with my name in Kanji on the top tube
-Zipp 3000 Carbon Front Wheel (900g!)
-Zipp 950 Carbon Rear Wheel (950g!)
-Sugino 75 Crankset
-Sugino Vintage Super Mighty re-Release Chainring
-Nitto Seatpost
-Custom Colour Kashimax aero seat, green with pink underside
-MKS Nuveau Pedals, MKS clips and Toshi Straps
- Dura ace sealed bearing headset
- Ntto jaguar Stem
-Natural Cycle Bars
-Champ grips
-Kashimax top tube protector
The Ladys Cycroc Mini Velo, awesome little piece of machine, don't know why we dont have these back home!
Exploring the City!
We jumped straight in, caught the train from Osaka to Tokyo and the next day rode from Asakusa to Shibuya.
Riding was pretty relaxed, when it got crowded we just moved on to the road and the cars were pretty careful, pedestrians get out of the way as soon as you ring a bell so getting one is recommended if you want to ride in Japan.
Bought heaps of shit in Shibuya and Harajuku and went home to a meal of ramen and beer at a tiny bar in Asakusa.
Riding was pretty relaxed, when it got crowded we just moved on to the road and the cars were pretty careful, pedestrians get out of the way as soon as you ring a bell so getting one is recommended if you want to ride in Japan.
Bought heaps of shit in Shibuya and Harajuku and went home to a meal of ramen and beer at a tiny bar in Asakusa.
The Stores... AKA Bike Porn Caves: Day 1
Next day (well today) we decided to all out and find most of the famous and awesome fixed gear bike stores, Sexon Super Peace, Dreamworks, W-Base, Carnival and Blue Lug.
Started off the day by wandering over to Sexon Super Peace, after getting a bit lost...
being greeted by this made it worth it though...
Started off the day by wandering over to Sexon Super Peace, after getting a bit lost...
being greeted by this made it worth it though...
Here it is on a map if you should ever care to go there, I recommend you do!
Didn't take any photos inside unfortunately but bought an awesome T-shirt and basked in the awesome aura of amazing bike gear, rare Nitto pursuit bars and vintage italian and french track bikes were amazing!
Next asked the dudes in the store where Dreamworks was, as I couldn't find any map, turns out it was just down the little side alley on the oposite side of the street.
Now Dreamworks was amazing, tiny, like broom closet tiny, but packed with so much rare and amazing bike stuff your brain starts to leak out of your ears from sheer bike porn overload...
Next asked the dudes in the store where Dreamworks was, as I couldn't find any map, turns out it was just down the little side alley on the oposite side of the street.
Now Dreamworks was amazing, tiny, like broom closet tiny, but packed with so much rare and amazing bike stuff your brain starts to leak out of your ears from sheer bike porn overload...
They had such little room that they do all their work on the street outside, this guy was polishing vintage Campy cranksets!
This F.Moser with Campag Sirocco disc and rear Campy disc just sitting unlocked next to the store!
The photos speak for themselves so here are a tasty assortment:
The photos speak for themselves so here are a tasty assortment:
The brakes below are awesome, the guy who owns the store machines them by hand himself and drills them out.
I bought one of the smaller ones just because of there sheer awesomeness
I bought one of the smaller ones just because of there sheer awesomeness
After leaving Dreamworks with a huge smile on my face we went and had lunch and checked out some girly clothes and shit (an important part of the day to keep the lady-friend happy!).
We then made our way to Carnival, an awesome store in Shibuya on the second level of a building above another bike store called W-Base that sells mostly BMX gear.
We then made our way to Carnival, an awesome store in Shibuya on the second level of a building above another bike store called W-Base that sells mostly BMX gear.
W-Base was cool, bunch of guys were huddled in there around a computer watching some BMX trick edits and they had a pretty serious collection of vintage BMX parts!
But the more exciting venture came after we took the tiny elevator around the back to the second level, and into Carnival!
The staff were really friendly, and they have an amazing collection of bike parts including an FIR Razza 4 spoke that is mint, this I want...
I bought an Awesome Carnival T-Shirt and a Cinelli cycling cap, still thinking about going back for the Razza...
But the more exciting venture came after we took the tiny elevator around the back to the second level, and into Carnival!
The staff were really friendly, and they have an amazing collection of bike parts including an FIR Razza 4 spoke that is mint, this I want...
I bought an Awesome Carnival T-Shirt and a Cinelli cycling cap, still thinking about going back for the Razza...
This was parked out the front of Carnival... Panasonic, Corima 4 spoke and what seems to be a fork with adjustable rake?????
That was the end of our bike adventure for today, we just got back after eating at a little bar where you grill your own Okonomiyaki (a sort of savory pancake) and had a massive beer, pretty good for about $10 AUD!
Bike Pron Caves: Day 2
After taking a trip to Nippori Dori, a street full of fabric for my girl, I was rewarded with a ride to Blue Lug.
Blue lug was easily the biggest bike store I have seen yet, didn't have the allure of the amazing vintage and rare stuff like the other stores, but did have some really cool cycling apparel including T-shirts, a plethora of messenger bags, hats, tool pouches etc etc etc...
Bought a Blue lug T, some pins and a Cinelli Mash cycling cap (yes I am a hipster).
Blue lug was easily the biggest bike store I have seen yet, didn't have the allure of the amazing vintage and rare stuff like the other stores, but did have some really cool cycling apparel including T-shirts, a plethora of messenger bags, hats, tool pouches etc etc etc...
Bought a Blue lug T, some pins and a Cinelli Mash cycling cap (yes I am a hipster).
And here is a map should you ever visit, was pretty easy from Yoyogi station.
After this the plan was just to ride back to Shibuya for some more tasty Okonimiyaki but along the way we happened upon two shit-hot stores, the first put me into a cold sweat of rare bike part desire...
No idea what the store is called cause it was in Kanji but it was some sort of used bike store, amazing rare track, road, touring, MTB, BMX parts and whole bikes! Wanted to buy it all, walked away with nothing.. so sad, but something to come back for next time!
No idea what the store is called cause it was in Kanji but it was some sort of used bike store, amazing rare track, road, touring, MTB, BMX parts and whole bikes! Wanted to buy it all, walked away with nothing.. so sad, but something to come back for next time!
Spot the Spin Carbon BMX Trispokes!
Carbon fibre lugged roadie
My heaven! Love Disc wheels and wish I could have bought all of them, Sugino Tension disc is especially cool
Next about 5 minutes down the road we ran into another store called F.I.G bike, very cool urban cycling store, all new stuff but a good range and cool people, looks like it would be good for buying locks and lights and stuff, they had two very Pron Kestrels in the stairwell going to the fixed gear floor downstairs.
FInally to finish off the day we dropped by Punch! cycles in Asakusa, a tiny little shop that was so small you couldn't do anything but stand in the doorway, there were boxes and bike parts and all sorts of crap all over the place.
I had heard that the guy is not very friendly and doesn't speak any english but I experienced quite the contrary!
I went in and used my best Japanese to be polite and he was happy to have a chat (lots was lost over the language barrier but I could understand most of what he said)
He came outside and had a look at my bike, said it was Kako ii (cool) and Oki (huge), I thanked him and he called me inside and grabbed a coaster from a bar and a sheet of paper (which I later worked out is a betting slip from a Kirin race!!!), and proceeded to draw a little map to a bar called Kuhns, he wanted me to go and drink till I was full, said it was his mates fixed gear shop/bar!
Natually I was super excited so we followed his little scrawled map...
2 hours later at 1:30 in the morning, exhausted and exasperated we had to give up, we couldn't find it... but will definitely be coming back again one day to try again!!
After looking up the map, we were riding around it for ages, unfortunately it was closed after midnight so we probably rode right past it, check the website out here: Kuhns Bar
Waking up the next day, we decided to take it easy, ride down to Roppongi where is saw a heap of bike messengers, an amazing art gallery and chilled out in Ueno park...
The search for Ganwell, a Keirin Factory!
We have arrived in Kyoto, much less awesome bike stuff to do, but a beautiful place to be, and to ride around in.
I have heard whispers in the winds of a Keirin frame factory, where possibly cheap track parts and frames could be found, so we hopped on a train after some obscure research on the net and wandered through the suburbs of Kyoto (with many odd looks from the residents), we found Ganwell, unfortunately it was closed but check out the awesome sign.
We will definitely be heading back there in the next few days!
I have heard whispers in the winds of a Keirin frame factory, where possibly cheap track parts and frames could be found, so we hopped on a train after some obscure research on the net and wandered through the suburbs of Kyoto (with many odd looks from the residents), we found Ganwell, unfortunately it was closed but check out the awesome sign.
We will definitely be heading back there in the next few days!
Well we went back today... It appears that this little shed is no longer where they fabricate the Ganwell frames, it was full of Mama Charis.
There was a good bike store next door with some decent Kirin track parts, I picked up some Pearl Izumi gloves nice and cheap.
There was a beautiful Ganwell roadbike, pure pron, and also this amazing little Ganwell Pro track frame, check it out in the photo below! That was as close as we got to handmade frames... oh well!
There was a good bike store next door with some decent Kirin track parts, I picked up some Pearl Izumi gloves nice and cheap.
There was a beautiful Ganwell roadbike, pure pron, and also this amazing little Ganwell Pro track frame, check it out in the photo below! That was as close as we got to handmade frames... oh well!
The Bikes of Japan
I saw some truly awesome bikes, and some truly terrible ones, and everything in between!
Kickstands, baskets, bells and all sorts of random crap were adorning amazing vintage track bikes and completely illogical bar set ups were seen on many a street fixed gear, here is a taste of the bizarre world of bikes in Japan:
Kickstands, baskets, bells and all sorts of random crap were adorning amazing vintage track bikes and completely illogical bar set ups were seen on many a street fixed gear, here is a taste of the bizarre world of bikes in Japan:
Check out the lock used on these two Pinarellos in one of the busiest parts of town!
This seems to be the Japanese version of high security bike locking...
Tips and Tricks for Riding in Japan!
Well we are back home now, miss Nippon so much so will definitely be going back!
When researching about riding in Japan the information was sparse and sometimes badly translated so here is what we learnt:
Transporting your bike around-
If you want to take your bike on a train (we got away with local trains, subway trains and the Shinkansen) then you will need to put your bike in a bag (called "doing Rinko" as that is what the bags are called) I bought two Rin project bike bags from Gira Gira, they are approx $70 and will fit up to a 60cm frame, you just have to remove the front wheel.
Don't expect people to get out of your way while you are carrying awkward rinko bags around, they will not, I found the best strategy is to be a noisy gaijin and just yell summimasen, gomenosai, kiotsukete etc and push through the crowd.
I suggest just standing with your bike near the door on local trains and subway trains, it sucks but its really the only thing you can do with such limited room.
On the Shinkansen there is not enough room to have your bikes near your seats, you will have to place your bikes in the small but adequate gap behind the last seats at the back of each carriage, do it no matter where you are sitting and just keep an eye on them.
Of course the very best thing is just to ride! Next trip we will base ourselves in one city and just ride around.
The Riding-
I found Tokyo and Osaka awesome to ride around in, don't bother riding on the paths it can get frustrating even though people typically get out of the way when you ring a bell.
Ride on the roads, I felt safe, especially in Tokyo as the drivers are careful and courteous.
Kyoto was a different matter, the drivers are aggressive and awful, ride on the roads defensively and at your own risk.
Parking-
This can be a bitch, you will immediately notice that almost everyone, including some track bikes have a kickstand, and they just thread a tiny lock through their rear wheel, locking your bike to a pole can be troublesome due to the lack of space but I recommend you try. People say it is a safe place but bikes still get stolen.
Look out for signs saying no parking or your bike will be taken away signs, we parked in a few no parking places cause we were tired or whatever and we just got a note attached to our bikes asking us kindly to piss off (in Japanese).
Mostly just look where everyone else is parking their bikes, they are everywhere...
The Laws-
It is illegal to have a brakeless track bike, I didn't get pulled up but I was lucky, watch out around areas like Shibuya.
It is in the law to have lights/reflectors but I hardly saw anyone with them, perhaps get a set for your own peace of mind.
The Stores-
Check out as many as you can, they fucking rock.
When researching about riding in Japan the information was sparse and sometimes badly translated so here is what we learnt:
Transporting your bike around-
If you want to take your bike on a train (we got away with local trains, subway trains and the Shinkansen) then you will need to put your bike in a bag (called "doing Rinko" as that is what the bags are called) I bought two Rin project bike bags from Gira Gira, they are approx $70 and will fit up to a 60cm frame, you just have to remove the front wheel.
Don't expect people to get out of your way while you are carrying awkward rinko bags around, they will not, I found the best strategy is to be a noisy gaijin and just yell summimasen, gomenosai, kiotsukete etc and push through the crowd.
I suggest just standing with your bike near the door on local trains and subway trains, it sucks but its really the only thing you can do with such limited room.
On the Shinkansen there is not enough room to have your bikes near your seats, you will have to place your bikes in the small but adequate gap behind the last seats at the back of each carriage, do it no matter where you are sitting and just keep an eye on them.
Of course the very best thing is just to ride! Next trip we will base ourselves in one city and just ride around.
The Riding-
I found Tokyo and Osaka awesome to ride around in, don't bother riding on the paths it can get frustrating even though people typically get out of the way when you ring a bell.
Ride on the roads, I felt safe, especially in Tokyo as the drivers are careful and courteous.
Kyoto was a different matter, the drivers are aggressive and awful, ride on the roads defensively and at your own risk.
Parking-
This can be a bitch, you will immediately notice that almost everyone, including some track bikes have a kickstand, and they just thread a tiny lock through their rear wheel, locking your bike to a pole can be troublesome due to the lack of space but I recommend you try. People say it is a safe place but bikes still get stolen.
Look out for signs saying no parking or your bike will be taken away signs, we parked in a few no parking places cause we were tired or whatever and we just got a note attached to our bikes asking us kindly to piss off (in Japanese).
Mostly just look where everyone else is parking their bikes, they are everywhere...
The Laws-
It is illegal to have a brakeless track bike, I didn't get pulled up but I was lucky, watch out around areas like Shibuya.
It is in the law to have lights/reflectors but I hardly saw anyone with them, perhaps get a set for your own peace of mind.
The Stores-
Check out as many as you can, they fucking rock.
